Listen to "Stepping Off", Read by Doug Bradley.

Thursday, September 06, 2007

Cancun, Not Just for Drunken Spring Breakers

I have to confess, I was wary of our trip to Cancun. We'd originally planned on St.Lucia but work demands meant I could only take a week off, so we opted for somewhere closer to home, on a direct flight path, so that we didn't spend half the vacation in the air or at airports waiting for connections.

I know what I want from a summer holiday destination; deserted beaches, cobalt blue water, rich and vibrant local culture, new foods and a distinct shortage of loud tourists in even louder shirts. Since arriving in the U.S. several years ago, all I have ever seen or heard about Cancun involved drunken American teens and spring break debauchery - definitely not my idea of paradise.

But needs must when the paymaster wants you back by Monday, so Cancun it was! We selected a hotel that wasn't 'All inclusive' - I prefer not to give all my money to the giant corporations and let some trickle down to the small businesses - and looked forward to a family vacation that didn't involve theme parks, cartoon characters and overpriced crappy merchandise.

A week before our departure, Hurricane Dean threatened to spoil everything but fortunately (for Cancun as well as my own selfish agenda) Dean went south and zipped through some very lightly populated areas. The effects of Hurricane Wilma, 2 years earlier, are still very evident in the swathes of dead trees and vegetation in the areas outside the city and the still derelict buildings dotted around the booming hotel zone, so I'm sure the residents of Cancun let out a collective sigh of relief when they were bypassed this time.
On arrival at our hotel, I asked the receptionist if we could have our two rooms side by side or at the very least, close together. With a smile he advised that we could have an entire floor, if we wanted! Because of the threat of Hurricane Dean, coupled with the end of the U.S. vacation season, Cancun was everything I look for and nothing like I'd feared.

Of course, the first day was a beach day - everybody was the color of polished mahogany except the three of us - so we selected a spot by the infinity pool, made friends with a waiter and settled in for some reading, rays and rum punch. I finished "American Gods" just as the sun melted the glue and half the book blew out to sea.

Thanks to the earlier weather conditions, the waves were quite frisky and as the girls were still engrossed in their own books, I went for a session of body surfing and was pleased to find I've still got it!

There are many options for dining out in Cancun, from gourmet to Mickey D's and everything in between. I was interested to see that in Mexico, what restaurants in Texas call 'Mexican' food, is called 'Texan' food in Mexico.
I'd be hard pressed to chose a favorite eatery; "Lorenzillo's" (right) is beautifully located, though I'm not a seafood eater so the girls enjoyed it more than I.
"Blue Bayou", conveniently located in our hotel was a gourmet treat of award winning Cajun cuisine and I heartily recommend the duck.
The restaurant which managed to please all three of us was "Saluté" where the food, drinks and service were all impeccable.
Our first excursion was to the incredible Mayan city Chichen Itza. The journey from Cancun takes several hours but it's well worth it! Ours was broken up by a stop at a Cenote - a sinkhole in the limestone.

A picture from inside the Cenote. The 'strings' trailing down from the top are roots, stretching to reach the water.

Chichen Itza, once the political and economic centre of the Mayan Civilization, has been named one of the new seven wonders of the World - due in part to the incredible understanding of astronomy, mathematics and acoustics demonstrated in the construction. Words and pictures can't adequately describe this awesome site!


The trip to the city also involved a bathroom break, where I didn't meet any politicians or aging pop stars loitering in the cubicles, but I did see this equally unwanted occupant!



The next excursion took us to Coba for a day combining adrenaline rushes with cultural education where, in addition to a more 'hands on' Mayan Ruin, we rappelled 60 feet down into a cenote, did a bit of cave diving, flew across a croc-filled lake on a zip line, ate iguana, received a blessing from a Mayan priest, explored the jungle and generally felt like Indiana Jones!

Ariel view of the temple at Coba, (no, I can't fly - I scanned a postcard!).

The same temple from the base, 120 steps from the top!

A Mayan Ball Court - perhaps the precursor to basketball.
The game, called “pok ta pok,” involved keeping the ball off the ground and putting it through the ring on the wall using, primarily, the hips and thighs! In 'special' games, during times of need, the captain of the winning team was beheaded as a sacrifice to the gods. Winning truly wasn't everything in Mayan culture!

Inside the Cenote

Rappelling into the (bloody cold) water. In addition to the temperature, the water is also very fresh and salt free, making it incredibly easy so swim like a brick!


Lastly, a few pictures of the other jungle natives!




Other trips involved a Jungle tour by speed boat and snorkeling on the reef, both fantastic experiences but without a waterproof camera, the memories are confined to my head.

Though I started out this post by deriding the intoxicated teens of Cancun, we imbibed our fair share (and then some) of the local spirit, and brought home some souvenirs that I'm enjoying on a nightly basis rather than go cold turkey.

For those of you that haven't seen one, here's the beautiful view of a Tequila farm!


After a week in Cancun I can honestly say, chose the time of year that appeals most to you (on or off season) and get down there. Just make sure you set aside at least two days of sobriety and see the other wild side!


11 comments:

swisslet said...

sounds like a brilliant break. I know we've got all of Europe on our doorstep n'all, but I can't help but feel just a teensy bit jealous.

What did you make of "American Gods" by the way? Gaiman has fast become one of my favourite authors. He also writes quite an interesting blog:

http://www.neilgaiman.com/journal/

I love "Stardust", and I'm quite looking forward to the film, but I think "American Gods" is my favourite. Apart from his short stories, obviously. The one with the cat that fights the devil is just too good.

ST

swisslet said...

he makes me want to write. especially the short stories.

Anonymous said...

I LOVE this post Cancun is a place that I have wanted to visit, and now you have me wanting more. I think I may just email you and pester you with questions. It actually sounds as though it would be a great place to take the kids. I'm here from Michele's tonight but I'm so glad I came!

Michael K. Althouse said...

Those are some stunning photos. I never knew there was anything more to do in Cancun than to gawk at scantily clad (or less) beach bimbos and drink. I stand corrected.

Michele sent me,

Mike

Star said...

Great phtos. Glad you had fun. Cancun was our first island getaway many years ago. They had just rebuilt then from a devestating hurricane. It is beautiful. Aruba is my favorite island paradise. Michele sent me

BreadBox said...

I have to say that when I went there some years ago it was on a whim -- and the whim aspect of it turned out both well and less well -- but the whole vacation was amazing: we went to Merida for a couple of days in the middle, snorkeling in Cozumel, etc.... in addition to Chichen Itza and Tulum...

Unfortunately I didn't have a camera, so all my pictures of the place are painted in words and not colours.

Michele sent me tonight.
N.

sage said...

that looks wonderful... I had a chance to go down there last year, but passed. I've been to the Mayan Ruins in Honduras--they're really interesting. I came over from Kenju's blog because I knew a Mike Davis in school!

mckay said...

aaah, beautiful. i'm totally jealous of your fab vacation. loved the pictures.

here via michele's

mck.

Carol Gee said...

Mike, great pictures and "tour." We visited Cancun shortly after it opened, fortunately. It was nice to visit again. And it's good that Michele sent friends, huh.

heroesrox said...

I have always been interested in the places of Mayan culture.

I loved this informative blog and the pictures were astounding. Can one go inside Chichen Itza? I have dreamt about going there one day, and I soon will. :)

I also want to see Uyuni Salt Lake and Machu Picchu among other things in South America/Mexico. :)

Cancun Carol said...

Thanks for this information, your pictures are BEAUTIFUL! really, im in love with them, I cant wait to visit in a few months, you have me super excited.